How to resolve Error 0x80240fff when installing Windows Insider Builds

Solving problems by turning 1 incomprehensible error into 2 more manageable ones. I thought this only happened to Linux users.


Recently I was trying to update a Sony Vaio Fit 15E laptop from Windows Insider Slow Ring build 14931 to 14965 via Windows Update. The update would complete downloading and commence installing, but would fail during the multiple reboot process, causing the previous build to be restored.

After ensuring I had no SD cards inserted or USB devices attached, here are the steps I took to resolve it:

Defering Feature Updates

  1. Open Settings.
  2. Click Update & Security.
  3. Click Advanced Options.
  4. Check the Defer feature updates box.
  5. Retry the update process.

That didn’t work, so I tried:

Running the Windows Update Troubleshooter

  1. Open Control Panel.
  2. In the View by: dropdown, select Small icons.
  3. Click Troubleshooting.
  4. Click Fix problems with Windows Update.
  5. Follow the onscreen instructions to fix any problems that are found.
  6. Retry the update process.

That didn’t work either, so I tried:

Deleting the C:\$WINDOWS.~BT folder

  1. Open File Explorer.
  2. Click the View tab.
  3. Check the Hidden items box in the Show/hide ribbon section.
  4. Navigate to the C:\ drive.
  5. Delete the $WINDOWS.~BT folder.
  6. Retry the update process.

That didn’t work either, so I tried deferring feature updates again and rerunning the update process, producing this error:

There were some problems installing updates, but we’ll try again later. If you keep seeing this and want to search the web or contact support for information, this may help: (0x800705b4)

So I tried:

Installing from the ISO instead

  1. Download the latest Slow Ring ISO here. You’ll need to sign in 1st so the page knows you’re a Windows Insider.
  2. Using WinRAR, 7-Zip, or a similar archive extraction tool, extract the ISO file to a folder.
  3. Open the above folder.
  4. Launch the setup file.
  5. Set the installer to keep your apps, files, and settings and let it run.

That didn’t work either, so I tried deleting the C:\$WINDOWS.~BT again and trying to install from ISO as above. This time I got this error:

0x8007042B – 0x4000D The installation failed in the SECOND_BOOT phase with an error during the MIGRATE_DATA operation

Although this error might seem disappointing, it was actually encouraging because it was the 1st one I’d gotten that actually explained what the issue was.

Googling the error produced this excellent post by Andre Da Costa. I had to:

  1. Do a clean boot (see link for instructions. It’s generally a good idea at all times – error or not – to enable clean boot before rebooting from your current build to install the new one. This will prevent existing startup processes from interfering with the installation.)
  2. Disconnect the laptop from the internet (disable Wi-Fi, unplug Ethernet cable.)
  3. Disconnect all non-essential USB peripherals, including mice if you have a working laptop touchpad.
  4. Reboot.
  5. Retry updating from the ISO files.

This finally fixed the issue.

Note that if you have any services or apps you’d prefer to run at startup, you’ll need to manually re-enable them via some combination of Task Manager, System Configuration, and Services.

I hate that the Insider build update process is this unreliable, but issues can be worked around with tenacity and thought.

Thanks to Microsoft employee /u/zac_l for his assistance on this Reddit support thread:

How to find portable 64-bit VLC builds

You could just use the 32-bit build from the download link, but if you’re reading this that was never an option.

Need 64-bit VLC goodness on a machine you can’t install anything on? Portable VLC to the rescue. Find it by doing the following:

  1. Go to
  2. Scroll to the bottom of the page for the latest (highest) VLC version number and click the corresponding link.
  3. Click the /win64 folder link. This will expose 64-bit VLC builds in .zip and .7z archives.

How to use media cards with the Xbox One

Apparently I’m the first person to try this.

After being unable to get my Subsonic DLNA server to show up reliably in my Xbox One S’ Media Player, I decided to use external storage for video playback instead. I was about to drop $50 on a 128 GB USB stick when I remembered I had a 64 GB Kingston Class 10 UHS-1 microSD card laying around. Buying a USB media card reader seemed like a more efficient solution, so I started looking into doing so.

Apparently – nearly 3 years after Xbox One’s release – no one’s bothered to try this. Or at least they never bothered to write about it, because my Google searches and forum posts turned up nothing definitive.

I wound up having to get a couple readers and try them out myself, and both of them worked. This leads me to conclude that the Xbox One does in fact support media cards via USB readers. That said, you definitely want to get the fasest reader, and the crown for that goes to the Kingston MobileLite G4. This is the only reader I found with USB 3.0 and UHS-II support, which should future-proof you for ultra high bitrate (e.g. 4K) playback given a correspondingly fast microSD card. The G4’s only downfall is it supports SD and microSD only, but when’s the last time you saw any other media card in use in the wild?

You can pick the G4 up for as little as $8.95 online, which is much less than the $50 I mentioned earlier.

A local option is the Insignia NS-CR2021 USB 2.0 SD/MMC Memory Card Reader which, as its name suggests, also supports MMC and MMC+ cards. Unfortunately it’s limited to USB 2.0 only and there’s no mention of UHS support anywhere.

How to remove eBay results from Google Shopping searches

People actually buy from eBay? Gross.

Sick of sifting through hundreds of eBay results in Google Shopping? Append to your search.

There you go, no more questionable eBay garbage when you’re trying to shop from reputable merchants.

Thanks jscher2000 for the tip!

How to rebuild the Samsung Galaxy S5 GPS NVRAM

Of course you want to return to TouchWiz to fix a problem. Ha, no you don’t.

Note: if you’re not running a custom ROM – i.e. you’re running stock TouchWiz – and need to do this, see Phase 4 only. You’ll need to be rooted.

If you’re running a custom ROM on your S5 and GPS can’t get a fix despite rebooting, battery pulling, flashing new builds, and using all of GPS Status & Toolbox‘s tricks, chances are you’ll need to do rebuild the GPS NVRAM. Here’s how.

Phase 1: Backup your current custom ROM installation.

Instructions (which assume you use TWRP) in Phase 9 here.

Phase 2: Wipe the phone in TWRP.

  1. Boot into TWRP.
  2. Tap Wipe.
  3. Swipe to wipe using the default settings.

Phase 2: Flash the latest baseband in Odin.

  1. Find the latest baseband under the “Odin” heading here. If the files there are .tar archives, you’ll need to extract the .bin baseband files (usually called modem.bin and/or NON-HLOS.bin) from them.
  2. Flash it using instructions in Phase 3 here. You will need to do perform this for modem.bin and NON-HLOS.bin separately as ODIN reboots the phone after each individual flash.

Phase 3: Restore your rooted TouchWiz ROM.

If you don’t already have one of those, here’s how to get one. If you’re setting up a rooted TouchWiz ROM for the 1st time then you don’t have to restore anything because it’ll already be running, so you can proceed to the next phase.


  1. Boot into TWRP.
  2. Tap Restore.
  3. Tap Select Storage.
  4. Select the folder containing the backup.
  5. Swipe to restore.

Phase 4: Rebuild the GPS NVRAM.

  1. Boot into TouchWiz.
  2. Install Shotcut Master (Lite).
  3. Follow these instructions starting from “Open ‘Secret Explorer’ menu” onward onto the 3rd to last sentence.

Phase 3: Wipe the phone in TWRP.

Same process as Phase 2.

Phase 4: Restore the backup you made in Phase 1.

Same process as Phase 3, but with the custom ROM backup instead.

GPS should be back to working now. I have no idea what causes this problem, but so far this is the most involved custom ROM-related fix I’ve had to do.

How to make and flash your own rooted stock Lollipop TouchWiz ROM for the Verizon S5

If you’re reading this, you’re probably trying to solve a frustrating problem. Relax, I’m here to help.

The following are prerequisites for this to work:

  • Rooted Verizon Samsung Galaxy S5 (SM-G900V) with unlocked bootloader.
  • TWRP custom recovery installed.
  • 7-Zip installed on your PC.
  • SuperSU downloaded to the top level directory of a USB flash drive.
  • A USB OTG cable.


  1. Download full stock firmware.
  2. From the above archive, extract system.img.ext4, boot.img, modem.bin, NON-HLOS.bin, into a new folder on your PC.
  3. Open 7-Zip.
  4. Navigate to the folder containing the files from Step 2.
  5. Select all files from Step 2.
  6. Click Add.
  7. In the Add to Archive window that pops up, enter a filename and desired path.
  8. Click the Archive Format dropdown.
  9. Click tar.
  10. Click OK to make the files into a .tar archive
  11. Flash the .tar archive from Step 4 in Odin using the AP slot as described here.
  12. Boot into the ROM and set it up as you would a new phone, including updating all the apps on it.
  13. Boot into TWRP.
  14. Connect the USB flash drive containing SuperSU to the S5 using the USB OTG cable.
  15. In TWRP, tap Install.
  16. Tap Select Storage.
  17. Tap USB Storage.
  18. Select the SuperSU .zip file.
  19. Swipe to flash SuperSU.

And that’s it. This will give you a fully stock, rooted Lollipop ROM you can boot right into.

If you run custom ROMs, the stock ROM is pretty useful to keep handy as some troubleshooting methods (especially advanced ones involving the baseband) work on it only. As such, it’s a pretty good idea to back it up so you can restore it as needed. Instructions found in Phase 9 here.


How to use an Xbox 360 headset with the 3.5 mm jack Xbox One controller

Microsoft won’t tell you how; they’d rather you buy a new headset.

Note: I can personally verify this works for the Xbox Wireless Controllers with built-in 3.5 mm stereo headset jack onlyI don’t know how it works with other 1st party controllers, though the post below indicates that it should.

Basically you need a 2.5 mm TRS female to 3.5 mm TRRS male adapter. The headeset microphone does NOT work with regular 2.5 mm female to 3.5 mm male adapters.

Per thornierbird on Reddit:

More background information on headset compatibility with the Xbox One, including different 3.5 mm specs, is available from Xbox Support.

Power cycle – NOT reboot – your PC after a Linux Mint version update

Why write complete documentation when you can just confuse users instead?

If you reboot your PC after a Linux Mint version update (e.g. 17.3 to 18) and find things to be a bit wonky, you’ll need to power cycle the PC. The reason for this is there may have been a kernel version update, and Linux Mint always boots into the latest kernel installed. However, it does this only if the PC is power cycled. If it isn’t, the new Linux Mint build will boot using the old kernel, which causes the problems you may be experiencing.

You’d think this would be in the official version update instructions, but this is Linux, and so caveats are left to unlucky users to discover for themselves.

How to get a radio logcat from the terminal in Android

It’s easier and less complicated than it sounds.

Radio logcats are useful for troubleshooting network connectivity, especially on modded (rooted &/or custom ROM) devices. If you’re reporting such an issue it’s often useful to provide the radio logcat in addition to the regular logcat to help the developer resolve the problem.

That “123456” isn’t supposed to happen; my network provider’s name should be there instead. This is a situation in which a radio logcat would be useful.

There are 3 ways to get a radio logcat:

Using MatLog

This is the easiest method.

  1. Install MatLog.
  2. Tap the Options menu icon.
  3. Tap Settings.
  4. Under Configuration, tap Log Buffer(s).
  5. Tap the logcats you want (Radio in this case, but you can request others too).
  6. Exit Settings.
  7. Tap the Options menu icon again.
  8. Tap File.
  9. Tap Record to start logcat collection.
  10. When you’re done, stop the recording by tapping the corresponding location. The logcat file will be at /catlog in your primary (read: internal or adopted external) user storage.

Using the terminal on your device

  1. Install Terminal Emulator.
  2. Follow these instructions to set Terminal Emulator to start with root permissions.
  3. Start Terminal Emulator.
  4. Enter logcat -b radio > /sdcard/radio_logcat.txt – This dumps the logcat file radio_logcat.txt at the root of your SD card. logcat -b radio works too, but I have no idea where it puts the file and have never tried it myself.
  5. Reproduce this issue you’re getting the logcat for.
  6. When you’re done with Step 5, close Terminal Emulator.
  7. Navigate to the root of your SD card to find the file there.

Using ADB on your PC

While I know this method exists, I’ve never used it. The command to enter is adb logcat -b radio, and adb logcat -b radio > /sdcard/radio_logcat.txt probably works too.

How to change SELinux Mode from Enforcing to Permissive

Alternative title: How to get FlashFire working on CyanogenMod 13

The best app for this is SELinuxModeChanger (SELMC). You can sideload it, but it’s best to get it via the F-Droid marketplace app.

SELMC enables use of apps such as FlashFire – which needs either permissive SELinux or SuperSU – on CyanogenMod (which is incompatible with SuperSU).

Don’t forget to set SELinux back to Enforcing after you’re done using Permissive, as it’s a really important part of Android security.

The above worked on a Samsung SM-G900V running the kltevzw build of CyanogenMod 13.