In a stroke of absolute brilliance, Samsung ships a working app whose primary feature is disabled by default
You got Samsung Android device, took a few notes in Samsung Notes, then installed and signed in to the Samsung Notes Windows 10 app. Now none of your notes are showing up in the Windows 10 app. WTH is going on?
Answer: Samsung Notes’ default settings pretty much guarantee sync failure for desktop use cases. Here’s now to fix it:
- Ensure you’re signed in to Samsung Cloud in both the Android and Windows 10 app. The remaining steps take place entirely in the latter.
- Enter the app’s settings.
- Click on Samsung Cloud.
- Toggle “Sync via Wi-Fi only” (the fact that a setting is literally in quotes in the app may be a red flag here) off.
- Toggle Sync with Samsung Cloud off and then on.
- Click Sync now.
The app should now sync and pull all your notes from Samsung Cloud.
Users whose Windows devices are frequently between mobile and Wi-Fi data connections might want to leave the setting in #4 above enabled to save data, but pretty much everyone else should disable it.
Thanks u/Act1v1si0n for this solution.
A rare good product that lacks a proper support page.
ToJane sells the above wonderful products, but apparently doesn’t have the manual or operating instructions available for download anywhere. So here it is, scanned in: ToJane TG801 Manual. You can find the TG801 on Amazon and at the official ToJane Store. Perhaps more alarming is the lack of a ToJane support page anywhere. Basically, if this thing breaks on you, you’re toast.
Being more secure makes settings disappear. Great.
So you want to change the profile of the network to which you’re currently connected from Public to Private or vice versa. If you’ve already gone to Settings -> Network & Internet -> Ethernet, and clicked on the network you’re connected to, only to not find the Public/Private setting not there, here’s what to do.
Most likely that’s due to a custom UAC (User Account Control) setting. You can change it back to the default by doing this:
- Open Settings again.
- Search for “UAC.”
- Click the Change User Account Control settings result that pops up.
- In the ensuing window, ensure the slider is positioned at the 2nd notch from the top:
- Click OK.
- Return to the Ethernet network setting as in the 1st paragraph above. The Public/Private network setting should be available now.
If that doesn’t work, you can also try the Registry method described here.
I recently ran into the above error after attempting to encrypt my Verizon Samsung SM-G900V (Galaxy S5, klte) running LOS 14.1 (that was a mistake.) Basically it means TWRP can’t successfully decrypt the filesystem.
When this happens, your best bet is to simply factory reset the device and restore a backup. To do this, simply tap Cancel at the decryption password prompt in TWRP, then factory reset via the Wipe menu as usual.
Unfortunately, this will totally negate whatever encryption you had – aside from adopted storage – but it should get return your device to a usable state.
Should’ve been compatible from the start, but I’ll take it.
HTC’s USB-C Digital to 3.5mm adaptor (it’s “adapter,” guys) now works with other Android devices, thanks to a firmware update. It previously worked with HTC devices only.
I tested it successfully with my Moto Z2 Force.
Do you accept PowerShell as your lord and savior?
I recently installed a new Windows 10 Insider Slow Ring build, only to find all my pinned taskbar UWP shortcuts missing. The apps didn’t show up the Start menu either via searching or manual scrolling.
The fix is here and involves a bit of PowerShell wrangling for batch operation, but all you have to do is literally copy and paste commands. I highly recommend you close all UWP apps before doing it, but don’t worry about “resource currently in use” error messages after that as the commands will work just fine.
$45 for a feature your previous phone had. What a time to be alive.
If, like many people, you’re frustrated by the increasing number of new phones shipping with a headphone jack, you can take solace in the fact that the only USB-C device – that I know of – that allows simultaneous charging and (wired) headphone use probably supports your phone.
I got one recently and it successfully tested it with the (US unlocked) HTC U11 and the Lenovo (Motorola?) Verizon Moto Z2 Force (MOTXT178901). Given that, I’m willing to say it’ll probably work with any USB-C Android device, and not just Google’s new Pixel 2.
I’ll try testing it on a (Sprint) Samsung Galaxy S8+ (SM-G995U) when I get the chance.
I found the sound quality and volume excellent; the adapter will definitely drive demanding earbuds.
The only drawbacks I’ve found are:
- It’s definitely on the larger side of things. The good news is this makes it much harder to lose.
- The cable is much stiffer than some of the product photos would lead you to believe.
- $45 is pretty expensive for a dongle.
You can find it at Google or Moshi. Part number is 99MO084242.
Android’s most powerful feature is found on only handful of devices. None of which are Google’s. *sigh*
After Googling the above turned nothing up, I decided to start an XDA thread about it.
Please comment at the thread; I’ve disabled comments here to prevent folks from chiming in without reading the very important rules.
Yet another topic there’s much less documentation on than there should be
If you have cable internet or are using the coax cable inside your house for MoCA networking, you might eventually want to split a cable outlet between 2 end point devices, e.g. a set top box and a modem, or a network CableCARD tuner and a MoCA adapter.
You’ll need a digital splitter for that, and the most important spec for the job is the frequency range the splitter is rated for. It must be from 5 to approximately 1000 MHz. I say approximately because some splitters that work are rated for 5-1002 MHz.
Splitters that have worked for me – most recently with an Actiontec ECB6200 – include the Extreme Broadband Engineering BDS102H, CommScope SV2G, and Regal ZDSB3DGH10. If you can’t find any of those or a splitter that meets the 5-1000 MHz spec, then get one from a cable company truck. I did this myself years ago by just hanging out in the cable company office lot until a truck came by. I told them what I needed a digital splitter for, and they tossed me a couple.
Don’t just flash modem firmwares and think you’re done.
The following is directed at Samsung Galaxy S5s running custom ROMs and custom recovery environments only. The Galaxy S5’s internal storage has multiple partitions, each with its own separate image. For the sake of this discussion, we’ll divide the partitions into 2 groups: customized and stock.
Customized partitions are the ones you’ve put a custom image onto. For most devices running custom ROMs, that’s the /recovery – this is where TWRP, CWM, etc. live – and /system – where the actual (custom) Android phone OS lives – partitions.
Stock partitions are the partitions with unmodified OEM images. For most devices running custom ROMs, that’s every partition except /recovery and /system. Because some of these partitions contain firmware for the phone’s hardware components and said firmware was developed for a particular version of Android, it’s important to keep them updated. It isn’t too hard to see how, for example, pairing firmware designed for Android 4.4.2 with a custom Android 7.1.1 ROM could cause problems.
This guide will show you how to update as many of the stock partitions as possible without touching the customized partitions:
- Download and install 7-Zip.
- Download the latest stock firmware (where “firmware” in this sense means an archive containing images for all partitions) from SamMobile.You’ll need to search by your phone’s model number at that page.
- Decompress the archive from the above step. If you find it contains a .tar.md5 file; decompress that too.
- In the folder containing the extracted files, select the following:
- NON-HLOS.bin – This is the 4G LTE modem firmware.
- modem.bin – This is the 2G & 3G modem firmware.
- rpm.bin – This is the resource and power manager.
- sbl1.mbn – This is the secondary bootloader.
- tz.mbn – This is the trust zone.
- sdi.mbn – This contains transmission band info (?)
- aboot.mbn – This is the phone bootloader. SELECT THIS ONLY IF YOUR PHONE SHIPPED WITH AN UNLOCKED BOOTLOADER (i.e. DO NOT SELECT IT IF YOU’RE USING A VERIZON S5 AS YOU WILL RE-LOCK THE BOOTLOADER.)
- Follow Steps 6 to 11 here.
And that’s it. All your partitions will be safely updated without touching your custom ROM or custom recovery.
Thanks haggertk for the method, E:V:A for partition details, and Campbell Vertesi for the NON-HLOS.bin and modem.bin descriptions.